Portugal · Sardines

Lisbon Charcoal-Grilled Sardines

Sardinhas Assadas

In June the whole of Lisbon smells of sardines on the grill. They are cooked whole with nothing but coarse salt, and every one is eaten on a slice of bread that soaks up the juices.

  • Prep 10 min + 30 min salting
  • Cook 10 min
  • Serves 4
  • Level Easy
Photo: Yusuke Kawasaki from Tokyo, Japan · CC BY 2.0

Ingredients

Tap each item as you gather it.

For the sardines

To serve

Method

Step by step, the way it is done on the island.

  1. Salt the sardines. Rinse the sardines in cold water without rubbing off the scales. Layer them in a dish with the coarse salt and refrigerate 30 minutes to 1 hour.
  2. Light the coals. Build a hot charcoal fire and wait until the coals are covered with white ash. Oil the grates well or use a hinged fish grill.
  3. Make the pepper salad. Toss the grilled peppers with the olive oil, vinegar and a pinch of salt.
  4. Grill. Shake off the loose salt and lay the sardines on the grill. Cook 3–4 minutes per side, turning once, until the skin blisters and the meat lifts from the bone.
  5. Serve. Lay each sardine on a slice of broa and serve with the pepper salad. Eat with your fingers: lift the fillets off the bone and finish with the bread.

On the side

The side dish that belongs with it, full recipe included.

Minho, Portugal

Portuguese Corn Bread

Broa de Milho

A dense, crusty yeast bread made with cornmeal, from the green north of Portugal. Fishermen’s families tear it up to soak in fish stews or eat it alongside grilled sardines.

  • Prep 20 min + 1½ h rising
  • Cook 40 min
  • Serves 8 (1 loaf)
  • Level Medium

You need

  • 2 cups fine yellow cornmeal (about 9 oz / 250 g)
  • 1½ tsp salt
  • 1 cup boiling water
  • 2 cups bread flour (about 9 oz / 250 g), plus more for dusting
  • 2¼ tsp (1 packet) instant yeast
  • ¾ cup lukewarm water (about)
  • 1 tbsp olive oil

How to make it

  1. Scald the cornmeal. Mix the cornmeal and salt in a big bowl, pour in the boiling water and stir until evenly moist. Let cool until just warm, about 15 minutes.
  2. Make the dough. Add the flour, yeast, olive oil and enough lukewarm water to make a soft, sticky dough. Knead on a floured surface for 8 minutes.
  3. Rise. Cover and let rise in a warm place for about 1 hour until doubled. Shape into a round loaf, dust with flour and let rise 30 minutes more on a floured tray.
  4. Bake. Bake at 450 °F (230 °C) for 35–40 minutes until the crust is deep golden and cracked and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Cool before slicing.

Photo: María Alabau · CC BY-SA 4.0